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MyJonBoat.com "How To" eBooks *Online Since 1998
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Customer's Comments Just to let you know I received your book today, and I am very pleased with it. I can see that the information it contains will save anyone embarking on such a project a lot of wasted time and effort. Admittedly, there is satisfaction when you have ironed out all your teething problems and you have designed and completed something useful, but you can't beat experience, even if it is from someone else.
A "MyJonBoat.Com" Success Story (From "DevilJohn") Howdy Ray, Good Tip: I used stainless bolts w/ nylon washers and non-hardening gasket sealer w/ nylock nuts to replace the lousy pop-rivet job done previously. Also, gooed all the remaining rivets beneath the waterline w/ Marinetex. So far the rivets/bolts are solid as Fort Knox. I used 1" right angle 1/8 aluminum bar stock to brace the cracked ribs on each side.Good Tip: On the design, I cut a rectangular hole in the front bench and used the bench as a dry storage box/electrical terminal area. This was fairly easy, as I put in 1/2 ply in the bottom, and put a hinged/carpeted 3/4 lid with a hasp on the top. It is quite handy and didn't get wet. My boat has a fairly narrow beam (36" at the base) so I didn't install any side panels to cut down on weight. I used 1/2 ply for the front and rear floor decks (saving weight again), cutting notches for the ribs.I also added a 12'' wide strip of 1/2 " ply beneath the front deck from front to rear to support the front swivel seat which is mounted via stainless bolts and t-nuts, thus making removal of the seat a synch w/ socket or wrench w/o removing the deck or having nasty carriage bolts protruding upward. Good Tip: To hold the front deck down, I mounted a 2" strip of 1/8 aluminum bar stock across the front tied into the front rib and simply tied the rear in w/ a strip of 2" ply mounted vertically to the center bench. The rear deck is similarly held in place, tied in to the center bench w/ a strip all the way across and to the rear bench w/ a single block in the center, thus allowing a paddle etc to fit under the rear seat.Beneath all of the floor decking is 1/2 foam board (that pink stuff from home depot used for wall insulation, one 4x8 sheet was all I needed). The foam replaces the flotation removed from the front bench to make the dry storage box and adds support to the 1/2 ply decking. Good Tip: One mod I made, which I found to be quite handy, was the addition of a lantern pole holder. I put a stainless eye-bolt in the center of the front side of the front bench/dry box and drilled a 3/4" hole directly beneath the eye-bolt in the floor deck. Used a piece of electrical conduit about 6' long w/ a 6" eye-bolt and snap clip thru the top.This way, I can slide the pole into the eye-bolt and floor deck and support a Coleman lantern high in the boat. works like a charm. The eye-bolt also serves as a stop for the drybox lid.....btw the lantern pole (about $4 to fabricate) also serves as a great tarp support, lure retriever, underwear hanger etc..... Good Tip: Another addition.... 1-1/2" PVC pipe rod holders. Drilled 3/4" hole 3-1/2 inches from the top of a 12'' piece of PVC, used dremel w/ cutoff wheel to make a slot and rounded the edges. I mounted 7 of these around the boat, one #10 stainless bolt through the gunnel up top and another bolt through the edge of the rib brace at the side V, thus no hole drilled through the boat below the water line. |